I am learning CSS from this site
http://www.w3schools.com/css/css_examples.asp
Please just browse around there as some of the attributes won't work in older browsers......
Re I've heard a stories, could be April Fools joke, that sites using CSS will start to find it harder to get search engine listings.
This is because of abuse of CSS to try to fool search engines.
The only thing I heard about CSS is that using hidden text is being used to spam - there are people way more expert than me in this field but I think as long as you stay with good principles you will not penalized.
I am launching some CSS and XHTML sites to see for myself if it really makes a difference.
I also agree that if you use a table layout you might just as well use HTML 4.01
From what I have seen you have to use CSS and XHTML and I am currently checking out the cross-browser issues.