First, I am not an expert designer - mostly a hobbyist. But I spend a lot of time on the web and can tell you my opinions about what makes a site interesting to me, or makes me click out in a hurry.
Remember that the focus of your site is the content. Look at your site as a newcomer who does not know much about the topic and decide then if what you see draws you in.
For example, the first 2 things I would advise for you are to 1) take out the background or replace it with something muted, and 2) increase the size or weight or font of the text.
On the Notes page, there are better ways to highlight text other than using hot pink - either increase the size of the type slightly, indent the text, put it in italics.
Same on the LINKS page.
- The warning about the graphics is a very good idea. Try highlighting it so it stands out more than the following text. Perhaps just bulleted?
- The poem looks like an important element on your page, so it should stand out a bit. Try to center it, put it in a different font than the "regular" text.
- The link to the drawing appears to be broken.
- Personally, I don't like traffic counters on a page. Avoid adding data to a page that does not serve a good purpose.
- The text overruns the buttons for the navigation, which detracts from the look of the site. You could either make simple boxes that fit the text, or resize the text or write smaller button labels.
- The maps need to be a bit larger to be readable.
You have a lot of good content and it would be a shame for someone to click out without reading thoroughly. So be sure you focus on what makes it easy to read and to navigate. Simple is best.
Overall, the idea is good and just a few changes would make a huge difference in making this site easily viewable to your audience.
Good luck with your project. I see you have other sites too, but I didn't visit them. You should look at them with the same thought - how easy are they for a visitor to read, understand and navigate?
Cheri
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