Well...it looks okay, but your code is by far the biggest obstacle in your site's success. It's rather unusual, bulky, and inefficient. But like you said, you did this without much knowledge so from that standpoint, it's pretty good.
What I would look at doing is making the layout a fluid layout (e.g. like the WPW layout, that takes up the full screen width regardless of screen resolution). You've got enough content that it should stretch out a bit for those of us with slightly higher than normal screen resolutions.
When you're doing this, look at using CSS a little more than you do now. You've got the right idea by using it; you just need to take it a bit further. Also, try avoid using absolute positioning in your layout if at all possible, as absolutely positioned elements fall outside of the document flow.
Next, learn a programming language of some sort. This will help you add interactive elements (e.g. recipe submissions/searchable database) and get people coming back. You can also archive your old newsletters using a database and a programming language.
After that, push on the backlinks. Get as many backlinks as you can from sites containing relevant related topical material.
After that, you should be good.
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