Re: Changing design of a CMS site
CMS themes are usually stored in a Themes folder, rather than the root. If it's Wordpress, all you need is a WP user account with admin and you can edit the CSS styles right inside the built in Theme Editor. But you might as well have FTP access also to make backup of existing theme or to add new images. As for working on an existing CMS theme, I would recommend using firefox + the firebug plugin for test editing on the live site. They help you visualize the way the existing theme was built.
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