Started handcoding in Notepad for a couple of years until I found Dreamweaver 3 and 4. DW is good for quick and complex table layouts, then I go back to the code and clean it.

Fireworks exports fully-working complex HTML layouts to DW but throws up a ton of code that is totally long-winded and also needs stripping down.

And then there's HomeSite for those Server Side Includes in a site which the developer hatcheted up so roughly that DW can't read them!

I really don't know what I'd do without coloured code highlighting, couldn't go back to just black & white LOL